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Author Topic: Problems on 2005 yz125 (bogging out, jetting is fine)  (Read 6066 times)
Wait for me
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« on: August 16, 2010, 06:26:45 PM »

2005 yz 125
Sea Level (home), 2000-4000ft where i ride
Main 400
Pilot 37.5
Needle 6CHY5-80
Clip: 4th position
Air Screw: 1.75 turns

Problem: Used to run fine, but now it wont (home or at the riding area). Starts up normal, crisp, idle... Once warmed up it'll start bogging at half throttle. (which means it's running rich some where) It never did this before even after the new top end. Look at the spark plug and it's wet (again it's running rich). It doesnt even run long enough for me to take a test run. Dies while warming up.

False fix:
Took carb apart and cleaned it well. Still same thing.
Replaces the crank seal... same thing
Changed plugs (i've tried ### different types of plugs. BR9EG, BR9ES, BR8EV, BR8ES, BR8EG etc etc)

Changed
Main: 400 -> 410
Pilot: Same
Needle: same
Clip position: 4th -> 3rd position
Air Screw: 2.5


From what i can see... the jetting is not significantly off enough for the bike to die like this. Reeds are fine... Air filter is clean.

The only other thing i can see is the Tranny oil leaking into the cylinder, but the bottom end is dry and no signs of oil leakage. how else can i check? (replaced)

I reach out to you professionals and Carb gurus to please... lend me some advice! This is my 2nd two stroke (first one was nothing but headache and it NEVER run right even from the factory. I ghost rode that SOB into bushes so many times out of frustration) I've been stranded out in the desert numerous times from the bikes fouling.

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zman
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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2010, 08:00:02 PM »

I had a similar problem with a RM125
bike seemed like it just would not clean up on top and bog
after countless times of banging my head into the wall
i repacked the muffler and it was good as new after that
Packing didnt look to bad but i guess it was enough to make a difference
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racerxx
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« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2010, 08:53:03 AM »

Well from the limited information it sounds maybe like it's not getting any fuel. pull the petcock out of the tank and make sure it's clean also make sure your breather tube on the gas cap is not crimped or clogged. After that I would check the ignition.
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« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2010, 09:23:08 AM »

I have no idea but have you checked the reeds? power valves? exhaust seal?
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Bruce372
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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2010, 09:38:56 AM »

good points, i spent weeks trying to jet out an issue from a clogged vent on the gascap

Well from the limited information it sounds maybe like it's not getting any fuel. pull the petcock out of the tank and make sure it's clean also make sure your breather tube on the gas cap is not crimped or clogged. After that I would check the ignition.
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« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2010, 10:04:14 AM »

good points, i spent weeks trying to jet out an issue from a clogged vent on the gascap

Well from the limited information it sounds maybe like it's not getting any fuel. pull the petcock out of the tank and make sure it's clean also make sure your breather tube on the gas cap is not crimped or clogged. After that I would check the ignition.

had the same problem...luckily it only took me two days to figure it out.  Confused Laughing Laughing Laughing
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« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2010, 11:49:24 AM »

Very symptomatic of two electrical components as well as all of the above, 1- coil [ when they begin to break down internally they often will misfire and then be fine again when cooled down.] 2- stator , [ stators can  exhibit similar misfire conditions when hot ,and seem fine when cold.] unfortunatley , both can check good [ book specs ] . you almost need to catch them in the act , test them when hot and even then , I have seen good spec. ranges on bad components .Yes , intermittent problems are the worst to trace . If you are lucky enough to know someone with the same bike you can swap components , dealerships often are able to pull parts from inventory to do this swap thing and if they burn up a good component , they can send it back on warr., but you can't. Process of elimination is your friend here.
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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2010, 09:39:13 PM »

man i sure hope it's just a kinked hose or some packing issues....

seems as though it's a coil, stator problem...   remember blowing into the hose and it was fine. as far as re-packing the muffler... it does it on my stock and aftermarket muffler... what are the chances?
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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2010, 11:10:52 AM »

We would be happy to look at it for you . Being a Proride Member I will only bend you over half-way .
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2010, 10:45:54 PM »

wait...

why would the bike start again when i change it to a new plug? Wouldnt that rule out the Stator and ignition problem?
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« Reply #10 on: August 19, 2010, 11:17:29 AM »

It probably [ could have ] cooled down enough , during the plug change to get back to intermittant , please keep in mind this is purely speculation , but based on the process of elimination described in your post above of all the thing that were tried , I believe you still have a condition. As always , I hope the answer is the least expensive thing in the list.And if it becomes a scenario where the problem actually is just a bad ground wire , then woo hoo ! By the way , have you gone through and cleaned and checked all the grounds? Spark demands go up in ignitions with , hi - comp. pistons , extreme rpm ceiling increases , super heavy loads seen at the crank. These are just a few items that cause the spark plug to pull / demand more sprk energy. When the demand goes up , a bad ground has been known to cause this type of problem. crap - im rambling again , sorry.
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« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2010, 09:19:41 PM »

ok swapped out the ignition coil with a friends.... not the problem.

 Need to remove stator but the outer ring part seems like it needs to be pulled out with a gear puller or some sort? any other way to remove that sucker?
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nickvalve
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« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2010, 07:58:29 AM »

No
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« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2010, 11:54:25 AM »

$#@$#@ #@$#@$@! Time to go machine one together ... $70 for a gear puller is insane. lol

Nick:  you've been really helpful! I appreciate it.
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Bruce372
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« Reply #14 on: August 24, 2010, 12:03:58 PM »

dude, you need a flywheel puller not a gear puller and they are cheap

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/vehicleSelectProd.do?prevVehicleType=2&prevMake=8&prevModel=58&keyword=FLYWHEEL&vehicleTypeId=2&make=8&model=58&applyFilter=Change+Vehicle&year=2006&navTitle=Engine&navType=type&webCatId=17&webTypeId=203&prodFamilyId=17155&stockId=&listingId=&uri=%2FproductDetail.do
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