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Quote from: Shamus on January 13, 2018, 05:13:58 PM

The Ricky Stator regulator will handle the extra current that his stator will make. It would have cooked the OEM regulator.

Not to mention that it is probably a 12vdc regulator.

Yep. Now I can run a good LED bulb or light. The stock headlight on that thing is hot garbage! I already had the cleanup kit for the rear and since I was knee deep in the wiring anyway, I tossed the front signals and switched them to the Sicass racing integrated handguard ones. Cleaned it up quite a bit. I had to get the LED flasher and instead of dicking around with the inline resistors, I just removed the bulb from the green indicator light since you can't even see it with a bar pad anyway.

I ran it and rode it a bit and the fan never came on so I replaced the thermoswitch with the new one that came with the new fan. I ran it last night and the fan still never came on when I felt like it should. The fan works and there is power to the thermoswitch. I can jumper it and it comes on so I know it's something with the switch itself or I just didn't let it get hot enough. I read up on it a bit and it seems like lots of guys just put in a switch since the thermoswitches seem to be very unreliable. Alot of them also remove the thermostat. Trail Tech sells a thermostat delete kit but Blais Racing sells just a spacer/o-ring that you put in when you take it out. My plan is to wire in a small switch that will be in tandem with the thermoswitch and remove the thermostat. Dirt bikes shouldn't have thermostats anyway! I will be able to turn the fan on and off with the switch and the thermoswitch will also be able to function to turn it on if I forget to or whatever. I'll take a few pics of everything when I do it tomorrow night. I already picked up the switch but I don't have the connectors I thought I did so I gotta grab them after work tomorrow.

The switch for the fan is probably not necessary but I will allow me to have full control over the system.

Maybe American Airlines can give you some maintenance tips.

  I fly alot and I gotta say that was by far the worst display of ineptitude from any airline I've seen yet.

Quote from: FastRich on December 20, 2017, 10:32:55 PM

Pulled the flywheel, replaced the pulse gen with a new one, put everything back together and still no spark. Beyond irritating at this point. I have to believe it's the CDI or some ridiculous ground I can't find. I've never had such an utterly idiotic experience with a dirt bike ignition. Get your effing shit together KTM! No Japanese bike I've ever owned in 20 plus years has given me a 1 second of serious electrical trouble! 

So you are absolutely sure the ignition side of generator is making juice for the CDI?

I get volts when I put a meter on the connectors and press the start button as it turns over. I guess I drop $200 on a CDI and see if it works. If not I replace the gen. After that if it doesn't run I fill the tank with gas and light it. 

A pulse generator is a very passive device, not likely to fail. Are you sure the "new" plug you tried was actually new?

Know any real tough guys who are into pain, or owe you a huge favor? Have one stick a screwdriver in the plug socket while you crank it. If they scream like a little girl its a bad plug. If they're still a tough guy replace the CDI unit.

Solid procedure right there! 

Definitely not the plug. I've been down that road before. I've verified with two new plugs and an old "known good".

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but, the voltage regulator should only be managing DC voltage to the DC system on the bike, so that the battery doesn't get over charged, lights burn out etc. The ignition system is an AC system separate from the DC system so I wouldn't think it's a factor. Current flowing out of the stator is AC, then goes to a rectifier to be changed to DC, then to the voltage regulator, then to the bike's 12V DC equipment-battery, lights, instruments, etc.

I think you are correct. I'm still getting no spark and I've checked basically everything to ground in an effort to eliminate that as a possibility.

Battery is new and fully charged, Coil is new Spark Plug is new, Switches are good and functioning properly. Turn signals work, horn works, bike turns over when the starter button is pushed.

When you hold the button down and the bike is cranking, both the small bulb (they call it a parking light) and the main element illuminate and kind of pulse following the cranking of the engine. This makes me believe the generator is producing power and the regulator/rectifier is functioning.

Now to the pulse generator. To my knowledge, other bikes don't use this or at least not in the same form. Is the function of the pulse gen. to create a dedicated AC signal for the ignition? 

I was right and wrong the first time. The green and red wires are the pulse gen. both the new and old one read 100 ohms across the leads which pretty much tells me that isn't the problem.  The coil is also not the problem. Resistance across the stator (red with white chaser and black with red chaser) is 12 ohms. Ideas on where to go next?

12 ohms across the pulse gen seems really really low. Normally those are in the 200-500 ohm range, and the alternator windings are normally in the 1-3 ohm range.

OK, K ohms makes more sense. I guess I wasn't really paying attention to the range it was on. With that nugget, I can almost assume it would be the pulse gen. My fan was hammered too so I got it all on order yesterday. If it's not the coil or the pulse gen., it can only be the stator or the CDI. The voltage reg. shouldn't be a player in getting jolts to the plug right?